Your hands get all the glory. But ask any experienced climber and they’ll tell you the same thing: your feet are where the real climbing happens.
Two of the most fundamental foot techniques in bouldering are smearing and edging. If you’ve heard these words on the wall and wondered what they actually mean, then this one’s for you.
Smearing is when you press the flat sole of your shoe against the wall to create friction.
There’s no edge or foothold to stand on. Instead, you’re relying on the rubber of your shoe gripping the surface itself. The more surface contact you create, the more friction you generate — and the more stable you feel.
You’ll use smearing most on slab routes, where the wall leans back slightly and the rock is relatively featureless. It feels counterintuitive at first. The instinct is to look for something to stand on. On a slab, you have to trust the rubber.
The key to good smearing: keep your heel low, apply steady downward pressure, and don’t rush. The moment you second-guess yourself and lift your heel, you lose the friction.
Edging is when you use the edge of your shoe, usually the inside edge near the big toe, to stand on a small foothold.
Where smearing is about surface area, edging is all about precision. You’re placing a very specific part of your shoe on a very specific part of the wall. A small chip, a tiny ledge, a shallow pocket, even a bolt hole if you’re crazy enough.
Edging is common on steeper, more featured walls where footholds are small but usable.
The key to good edging: look at the foothold before you commit to it, place your foot deliberately, and then trust it. Climbers often lose footholds not because the hold is bad but because they shift their weight before they’ve fully committed.
The simplest way to think about it: Smearing uses friction. Edging uses precision.
Smearing works when there’s no defined foothold, so you create grip from nothing. Edging works when there’s something small to stand on; that way, you make the most of what’s there.
In practice, most bouldering routes require both. You might edge onto a small chip, then smear your way through a blank section above it. Learning to read the wall and choose the right technique is a big part of what makes footwork click.
The most common mistake beginners make is ignoring their feet entirely and trying to pull through everything with their arms. Climbing with bad footwork is exhausting.
A few simple habits that make a big difference:
Look at your feet. Seriously. Before you step, look at exactly where you’re placing your shoe. Most beginners look at the next handhold before their foot has even landed.
Climb slowly. Fast climbing hides bad footwork. Slow it down and you’ll notice where you’re being sloppy.
Try a slab route. Slab climbing forces you to smear properly. There’s no way to cheat it with arm strength. It’s the fastest way to build trust in your feet.
At Beta Boulders, our coaches work on footwork in both the beginner and intermediate classes. It’s one of the highest-leverage things you can improve as a climber!
Become part of our community
Bouldering isn’t just about pushing yourself – it’s also about having fun with friends. Check out our membership offers and find a membership that suits you!
We have a recurring membership, prepaid membership and multi–pass to suit everyone’s needs.
Bouldering can be challenging. You might feel stuck on a grade or that you’ve reached a plateau, no matter how hard you train. Or maybe you see all the training equipment but you don’t know how to use it. Sounds familiar?
We have multiple classes to choose from, aiming to have just the right one for you!
Online-Shop
The below rules ONLY apply to physical products bought on the online-shop, but not to Memberships, Multi-Pass, Gift Card or other services bought online. General Terms and Conditions apply to Memberships, Multi-Pass, Gift Card or other services bought online.
Return Rights
To return or exchange an item, you must send the product back to us within 14 days of the date it was received by you. All returned items must be in a suitable condition so as to be resold as new. The product must show no signs of use (i.e. including washing), and all original packing must be undamaged and unaltered. If the product and its packaging are not returned in a suitable condition, we reserve the right to refuse the return. You are responsible for the cost of all returns and exchanges unless restricted by mandatory consumer law.
Before sending us a return product contact us using the form below. Returned products must be sent to:
Beta Boulders Copenhagen
Kastanie Alle 8,
2720 Vanlose
Denmark
Damaged Package / Product
In case you have received a damaged package and/or product. Take a picture of the package before opening it from multiple angles and contact us using the form below if you believe the product was damaged in transit.
Warranty
In case you are un-happy with any of our product within 24 months of purchase due defects, contact us using the form below.