Do you Full Crimp while hangboarding?

Hangboarding for Climbing, which grip is better?

Hangboarding is very popular among climbers to develop finger strength and endurance. However, it is important to be mindful of the grip position you use while hangboarding, as certain grips can increase the risk of injury.

One grip position that should be avoided during hangboarding is the full crimp. Full crimping is a grip where the fingertips are curled over the edge of the hold with the thumb pressed against the index finger. While full crimping can be an effective grip for climbing, it should be used with caution during hangboarding.

The main reason to avoid full crimping during hangboarding is the increased risk of injury. When you hang on a small edge using a full crimp, there is a high amount of stress placed on the tendons and pulleys in your fingers. This stress can lead to injuries such as pulley strains or tears, which can take a long time to heal and can significantly impact your climbing performance.

In addition to the increased risk of injury, full crimping can also lead to imbalanced training. When you hangboard using a full crimp grip, you are primarily strengthening the muscles and tendons in your index and middle fingers. This can result in an imbalance in finger strength, which can limit your ability to perform certain climbing moves and increase the risk of injury.

To avoid these risks, it is recommended to use other grip positions such as the half crimp or open hand grip while hangboarding. The half crimp grip, where the fingers are curled slightly with the thumb pressing against the side of the index finger, is a more finger-friendly grip that can still be effective for building finger strength. The open hand grip, where the fingers are straight and the palm is pressed against the hold, is another effective grip for hangboarding that can help balance finger training.

In summary, while full crimping can be a useful grip for climbing, it should be avoided during hangboarding due to the increased risk of injury and potential for imbalanced training. By using other grip positions such as the half crimp or open hand grip, you can still effectively build finger strength while reducing the risk of injury.

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