You walk into a bouldering gym for the first time and see numbers and letters chalked onto the walls. V3. 6A. 6B+. What does any of it mean?
Bouldering grades are how climbers describe how difficult a problem is. They’re not an exact science, for example, two gyms might grade the same move differently, but they give you a shared language to track your progress and know what to expect.
New to climbing altogether? Our complete guide to indoor climbing in Copenhagen is the best place to start before you dive into grading systems.
Here’s how the two main systems work.
The V-Scale is the most common grading system in the USA. It was developed by climber John Sherman and runs from V0 (beginner-friendly) up to V17 (the hardest problems ever completed).
Most new climbers start on V0–V2. Getting to V4 or V5 takes most people several months of regular climbing. The scale doesn’t cap out, new grades are added as climbers push the limits of what’s possible.
The key thing to know: the jump between grades isn’t linear. The difference between V0 and V3 feels manageable. The difference between V7 and V8 can feel enormous.
In Europe, including at Beta Boulders, you’ll mainly see the Fontainebleau Scale, named after the famous bouldering forest outside Paris.
Font grades use a number combined with a letter: so you’ll see grades like 5+, 6A, 6B, 6B+, 6C, 7A, and so on. The letter indicates difficulty within a number, and the “+” adds another step.
Starting out? Look for 5 and 5+ problems. Solid intermediates tend to be climbing in the 6B–6C range. The 7s and 8s are where it gets serious.
At Beta Boulders, our problems are also number-coded by grade band. So even if the grades feel confusing at first, the numbers give you an easy visual guide on where to start. If you have any questions, just ask any of our staff, and we’ll point you in the right direction.
The two systems run roughly parallel to each other. V1 is around Font 5, V5 is around Font 6C, and V8 is around Font 7B.
| V-scale | Font | Typical level |
|---|---|---|
| VB | 3–4 | Absolute beginner |
| V0 | 4–4+ | Absolute beginner |
| V1 | 5 | Beginner |
| V2 | 5+ | Beginner |
| V3 | 6A–6A+ | Improver |
| V4 | 6B–6B+ | Improver |
| V5 | 6C–6C+ | Intermediate |
| V6 | 7A | Intermediate |
| V7 | 7A+ | Advanced |
| V8 | 7B–7B+ | Advanced |
| V9 | 7C | Advanced |
| V10 | 7C+ | Expert |
| V11 | 8A | Expert |
| V12 | 8A+ | Elite |
| V13 | 8B | Elite |
| V14 | 8B+ | Elite |
| V15 | 8C | Pro |
| V16 | 8C+ | Pro |
| V17 | 9A | Pro / world-class |
Neither system is more accurate than the other. They’re just different conventions from different climbing cultures. At Beta Boulders, all our problems are graded on the Font Scale.
Yes and no. Grades are useful for tracking progress and choosing problems at the right challenge level. But they’re also subjective. Some problems feel harder or easier depending on your height, reach, or strengths. A dynamic move that suits a tall climber might be a completely different puzzle for someone shorter.
The best approach: use grades as a rough guide, not a goal. A V5 climber who has solid footwork and body position will improve faster than someone who only chases harder numbers. Want to build that footwork and body awareness yourself? Start with our guide to smearing and edging, two foundational techniques every climber relies on to move efficiently and confidently up the wall.
It’s also worth knowing that gym grades and outdoor grades don’t always match up. Indoor problems are set by route setters and can vary in style, so don’t be discouraged if a grade feels harder or easier than expected. Every wall has its own character.
If you want to level up your climbing, our classes are a great place to start. Our coaches work on technique, movement, and reading routes, i.e. the stuff grades don’t measure.
Training at home between sessions? Check out our guide to hangboarding and crimp grip to make sure your finger strength training matches the demands of the grades you’re working toward.
Most new climbers start out on Font 4–5+ (around V0–V2). Reaching Font 6B–6C (V4–V5) usually takes several months of regular climbing, so don’t be discouraged if the numbers feel slow at first — steady progress is completely normal.
The two systems run roughly parallel: Font 5 is about V1, Font 6C is about V5, and Font 7B is about V8. There’s no exact one-to-one match because grading isn’t an exact science, but the chart above gives you a reliable rough guide.
The V-scale (V0, V5, V10…) was created in the USA and is standard in North America. The Fontainebleau or “Font” scale (6A, 7B…) comes from France and is used across Europe — it’s what we use at Beta Boulders. Neither is more accurate; they’re just different conventions.
For most people, reaching V4 (around Font 6B) takes several months of consistent climbing — roughly one to two sessions a week over six months to a year. It varies a lot depending on your background and how much you work on technique rather than just strength.
Not always. Indoor problems are set by route setters and can feel easier or harder than the same grade outdoors, where the rock dictates the movement. Treat grades as a rough guide rather than a strict measure, especially when you move between the gym and real rock.
Thanks for reading! For more training tips and news about the climbing world, stay tuned to our blog!
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